Every morning from Monday to Friday I walk the 1 km from where
I am currently living to the office where I work. Every evening I walk the same
route back home again. It’s a part of the day I really enjoy. In the morning
the air feels relatively clean and fresh before the sun gains its full strength
and the pollution of the Kampala traffic tightens its grip on the city once
again. In the evening, after a day spent sitting at a desk, I relish the
opportunity to get the blood pumping through my legs again.
It’s not a quiet road by any means. There are always other
people walking the same route as me; walking along the side of the road trying
to dodge our way between the traffic – the bicycles, the boda-boda, the mini-bus taxis, the cars and the lorries. Kampala
traffic is unpredictable and you can never be sure what a driver is going to
do. Despite having to concentrate quite hard on what other road users are doing
I enjoy the opportunity to just observe the sights and sounds of life being
lived on one small stretch of road.
- There is inevitably a man struggling to push a heavily laden bicycle. The things being transported may change – one day it could be crates of soda or beer stacked three or four high on the saddle, another day it might be enormous bags of charcoal, on a different day it could be several large bunches of matoke – and it will be a different man on a different day but it is always an effort and I marvel at how he manages it.
- There are numerous small kiosks, painted in the distinctive colours of the different mobile phone networks, offering ‘Mobile Money’. Sending money to family and friends through your mobile phone and paying utility bills in the same way has made life so much easier for people across Africa. Supporting your extended family financially is an accepted part of life and that money can now be sent easily to those living on the other side of the country. My favourite kiosk is the one that also sells pens, paper and envelopes. They advertise their wares with three words painted on the wall. It reads: ‘Stationary Mobile Money’. Surely a contradiction in terms!
- One kiosk I pass informs everyone in big black letters that it is NOT FOUR SALE.
- In the morning I walk past a lady setting up a small stall from which she sells fruit and vegetables. It’s a limited selection of tomatoes, onions, potatoes (called Irish here), sweet potatoes and matoke. She is still there in the evening and it always seems to me that she has hardly sold anything all day.
- In contrast, and a bit further up the street, there is a cage that in the morning is crammed full of scrawny and rather noisy chickens. Perhaps they know their fate and are taking a last opportunity to be heard as by evening the cage is inevitably empty – someone, somewhere not too far away, will be having ‘Chicken Tonight’!
- There are also chickens running free – either scratching around in the dirt or playing their own version of chicken as they weave in and out of the traffic. I had to do a double take this week when I saw a group of chicks all with bright purple feathers chasing after their mother.
- There’s no mistaking the line of business of ‘Unique Sounds – Music For Your Function’, as they blast loud music through the large speakers outside their shop. There is a certain irony to the fact that directly opposite their premises is ‘Peace Nursery School’.
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